What better time to begin planning the pool of your dreams than right now? Enhance the beauty of your backyard with a custom inground swimming pool from West Michigan’s #1 pool dealer – Zagers Pool & Spa!
Take a vacation every day right in your own backyard. Unwind, spend time with your children or grandchildren, entertain friends, and stay fit & healthy with a swimming pool all your own. Contact us today!
Opening your pool the right way can mean the difference between a summer of fun and a summer of headaches! Follow these important (and easy) steps to ensure a smooth, carefree pool opening in the spring. And remember, the professional, trained team members at any of our 3 locations are always ready to assist you with information tailored to your specific pool care needs.
1. Remove pool cover
Drain off any accumulated water on top of the pool cover. Using a submersible pump works best. Make sure the pump is pumping fast enough so it is only pumping the water on TOP of the winter cover. If your winter cover has small holes in it, water from under the cover could come through. Keep an eye on it so you are not pumping out water from under the cover.
Scoop out any remaining leaves or other debris that remains on the cover. Leaf rakes work great for this. Trust us – you don’t want all that gunk to accidentally slide into the pool when you take the cover off, so remove as much as you can.
Remove cover clips & water tubes from the cover (if applicable) and loosen the winter cable. Slowly remove the winter cover.
Once removed, clean the cover with BioGuard Stow-A-Way® to prevent sticking and odors. Store in a dry place, free of debris and protected from the sun and weather.
2. Install your pool pump & filter.
Check over your pump & filter to make sure all gaskets & o-rings are in good condition and lubricated properly. Use a Teflon based water lube instead of petroleum jelly which can actually break down the materials.
If you have a cartridge or D.E. filter also check over the grids to ensure they are clean and there are no holes or rips in the material.
For sand filters, check to make sure the center pipe & laterals (“fingers” inside of the filter) are not cracked. If the filter was not adequately drained over the winter, freezing could have caused cracking. It is also recommended to replace the sand at the beginning of every pool season (for above ground pools).
Hook up your pump & filter system by connecting the hoses as outlined below:
Hose #1 going from skimmer to front of pump (where basket is)
Hose #2 going from pump discharge to filter inlet (should be marked “inlet” or “pump”
Hose #3 going from filter outlet (marked “outlet” or “pool”) to pool return
If you have a heater, this would go between the filter & the pool return.
If you have a chlorinator or mineral cartridge system this would go between the filter & pool return – after the heater if applicable.
If you have a D.E. filter, make sure you add the correct amount of D.E. into the skimmer when you first turn on the filtration system. You should never run your D.E. filter without D.E. in it.
3. Remove the winter plugs
Remove the winter disc or plug from the return and take off the Aquador (if applicable) from the skimmer & install the eyeball into the return so that it is pointed down and to the right. You can also reinstall the skimmer basket and skimmer weir at this time.
4. Add water to your pool
The water level should be filled to the middle of the skimmer opening to allow for proper circulation.
5. Add your start-up chemicals
With your pool pump running, first add Bioguard Spot Kill to shock your pool water. 1 bottle (32 oz) treats 25,000 gallons of water. If you pool is cloudy or green don’t be afraid to use a little higher dose.
Let the Spot Kill circulate for about half an hour and then add Bioguard Back-up Algaecide. An initial dose of 2 oz per 1000 gallons should be added to the pool. Bioguard Back up should also be added on a weekly basis to your pool to prevent algae from growing. Add 1 oz per 5,000 gallons per week.
You should circulate your pool water continuously for the first 24 hours it is opened.
5. Clean the pool
Vacuum & brush your pool to remove any dirt or algae that might be present.
Scrub the waterline with Bioguard Off the Wall to remove any water or scum lines that formed over the winter.
6. Get your water tested
Be sure to circulate pool water 24 to 48 hours before taking a water sample. Using a clean plastic container, scoop about one quart of water from elbow-depth. Seal the container and take it to Zagers for testing and analysis.
Our computerized water analysis system provides accurate results almost instantly. You receive personalized instructions for starting & maintaining the pool. Help keep your water perfectly balanced by bringing in a water sample at least once every month during the pool season.
The best part about our computerized water analysis? It’s completely FREE to our customers. Bring a sample in today!
We have seen an incredible amount of snow this winter and it has been piling up on top of our winter covers. So the question is, “Do I have to do something about it?”
Let me start off by saying that you do not need to remove all the snow from your cover. A little bit, or maybe even a lot or snow on your winter cover is usually okay. Most of the time you do not have to worry about it. But, there are certainly times when snow should be removed if possible.
The situations in which you should remove snow, once again if possible, is if it is putting stress on your winter cover. Does it look like your winter cover is pulling in towards the middle? If yes, then try to remove some snow. The difficulty is, usually the snow is hard by this point, and very difficult to remove. Not to mention the fact that for safety reason you should never walk on your pool cover to remove snow. You can use a long-handled broom to push some snow off the cover, but there’s a good chance you won’t be able to reach the snow in the middle.
So, what if there is stress on my cover, it is pulling in towards the middle, and I can’t get the snow off?
In a situation such as this, it would be better to cut the cable on your winter cover than to continue to let it put stress on the pool. The stress on the cover isn’t what you are really worried about. New winter covers are relatively inexpensive. The main concern is putting stress on the frame of the pool. If your pool cover is pulling in, then it is trying to pull your pool wall in with it. In a situation such as this there is a definite possibility of top rails being cracked, torn off, or even the pool wall bending. Worst case scenario: the pool collapses in on itself. Not fun to think about, but it can happen in extreme situations.
So, if you see the cover pulling in, cut the cable and let it go. Sure that might mean a little more clean up in the spring, but at least your pool will be standing and in one piece.
Once Spring comes (it is going to come, right?) and all this snow starts to melt you are going to need to siphon or pump the water off the cover. I would suggest an electric pool cover pump with an automatic shut off. That way you can keep it on top of your cover and it will pump as needed. Stay on top of it throughout the Spring and it won’t be such a task when you are ready to open.
One other point to mention: Often if your pool cover is pulling it, the cause is that you have lost some water. When it warms up enough, you might want to consider adding some water to the pool. Just stick a hose under the winter cover and add enough to float some of the top ice and alleviate some pressure from off the top rails. And speaking of losing water over the winter – we’ll tackle that issue in another post!
Have you ever wanted to try wood-fired pizza your Big Green Egg?
Are you looking for tips on how to cook a pizza on the grill?
If you answered YES! to any of the questions above, then you’re at the right blog!
It’s really simple and gives you a tasty, crispy pizza! You just need the right tools.
To get yourself into the groove of making pizza on your grill or smoker, I would recommend getting started by getting a take n’ bake pizza from your local pizzeria or grocery store. It’s not fancy, but it’s great for getting yourself comfortable with the process. After that, feel free to adapt your own pizza recipes to cook on the grill.
Okay, let’s get cookin!
Things you’ll need:
First, you’ll need to get your Big Green Egg started up and heating. You want your temperature to be at around 325 – 350 degrees to get even cooking and a crisp crust.
Second, it’s best to allow your prepared pizza to rest for about 5 minutes to get to room temperature. The pizza will cook better.
After your natural charcoal is cooking at an even rate, put the plate setter and cooking grid in the egg. It’s also helpful to go ahead and put on the pizza stone. This will get the stone warmed up to a nice temperature. You won’t be waiting for it to heat up as well.
You’ll want to adjust the vents on the top and bottom of the Big Green Egg to get to your target temperature. Once that is reached, you can put your pizza on the stone. If you are able to cook the pizza on the pan it comes in, then place it on the pizza stone – pan and all. If you can’t, you’ll want to put just a little bit of cornmeal on the baking stone to prevent sticking.
After you’ve got your pizza on the stone, close the lid and leave the pizza undisturbed for about 8-10 minutes. The time is dependent upon the thickness of the crust. Once the crust has started to brown, slide it off the pan and directly onto the stone. This will give you a nice crisp crust.
Then, just cook until you’ve reached your desired temperature. You can do more than one pizza by using a 3-tier from Big Green Egg.
Remember when using natural lump charcoal with your Big Green Egg, you can re-use what is left for next time. Just be sure to cut off the air supply by closing all the vents. This will stop the burning and you’ll have a good starter for your next grilling.
Want more? Check out our video on making a pizza on the Big Green Egg.
Simple, Easy and only 3 ingredients to this Jalapeno or Serrano Popper recipe!
We even cooked these on our Big Green Egg, no need to warm up the oven or use a messy fryer. These poppers can be cooked prior to your main course to have a tasty treat while waiting.
You’ll need:
8-10 Peppers (Jalapeno or Serrano)
1 block Cream Cheese, softened
1 cup crumbled bacon
Wash & clean peppers. Cut lengthwise, clean out seeds and inside of pepper. Mix together softened cream cheese and bacon crumbles. Spread cream cheese mixture onto peppers. Place peppers on baking stone. Cook at 225 – 250 degrees for 20 – 30 minutes or until peppers are a bright green. Remove baking stone from Big Green Egg. Place peppers on a separate plate & serve! They have a little bite, but the cream cheese & bacon balance the flavor smoothly!
Ready to go on the grill!
Sure, you CAN close a green pool, but is it a good idea?
No, not really.
Why? Because closing a pool when its green is going to give you an even bigger problem in the spring or the next time you open it.
When you are experiencing cooler, fall like temperatures, it takes longer for the chlorine and other chemicals to evaporate. So, that means you’ll spend less money correcting the problem in the fall than in the spring. Likewise, when temperatures are warm and your pool is getting used frequently, it’ll take more chemicals to correct the problem because of the faster evaporation.
I recommend using granular chlorine and an algae killer. Granular chlorine lasts longer in pool water than liquid chlorine. Also, when using granular chlorine in the fall or cooler temperatures, be sure to pre-dissolve it to reduce the risk of bleaching out your liner.
Here’s what I recommend for treating algae already in your pool:
Note: Chemically clean your filter 3-4 days after treatment, I like to use Kleen-It. This is important because your pool filter has done all the hard work. The algae and other contaminants are now collected in your filter and it can affect filter quality. So, clean it to keep it running smoothly.
Fighting the battle against a green pool from algae takes time and patience, but it can be done. Making sure you have the right chemicals are key. Also, when you open your pool in the spring, start fresh and use an Algae Preventative like Banish or Back-up.
Perfect anytime of year is mouth-watering, messy and delicious RIBS!!
It doesn’t matter if you’ve got Baby Back Ribs, Spare Ribs or Beef Ribs, this recipe works for them all!
Here’s what you’ll need:
Make sure you have a clean work area. When you are working with raw meat it is very important to make sure you don’t re-use utensils until they’ve been thoroughly cleaned with soap and water. Also, be sure to clean up your prep area as soon as you are finished preparing the meat to reduce the risk of infection. It’s important to use a disinfectant on any surfaces that could have come in contact with the raw meat or splattered.
Prepare your smoker – Start up your Big Green Egg and adjust to a temperature of 225 – 250 degrees fahrenheit. Be sure to install the plate setter or elevate the rib rack to get indirect cooking. Cooking the ribs on an open flame can cause burning and will require constant flipping for even cooking. The plate setter will distribute heat evenly to cook around the ribs without needing to flip it.
Step 1 – remove the membrane off of the back side of the ribs. This is a very thin piece of “skin” that is present on the ribs. In some cases, this may already be removed. Typically, you can stick a fork under the membrane at an angle and slowly pull it back. The membrane does not cover the entire rack and when removed, it will not pull meat with it. After removed, discard.
Step 2 – use your fork to tenderize the ribs. Poke both sides of the ribs in-between bones the full-length of the ribs
Step 3 – squirt a good amount of mustard on each side and rub in. The mustard will tenderize your meat and you will not taste it after cooking.
Step 4 – Sprinkle your meat with seasoning or rub and PAT it into the mustard. DO NOT RUB it in. Rubbing will change the flavor of the seasoning instead of giving the meat a nice coat of flavor.
Step 5 – Place your meat on the grill/smoker or rib rack for cooking. Be sure the temperature is 225 – 250 degrees fahrenheit and allow it to cook for 3 to 3-1/2 hours.
Use a meat thermometer to reach the desired internal temperature for pork (150 degrees) or beef (160 degrees).
Now, you have two ways to do the finishing step.
To GLAZE your ribs, spread the honey on both sides and then spread on the bbq sauce. Return to grill for 15 – 20 mins or desired.
OR
Remove the ribs from the grill, spread with honey on both sides, spread on the bbq sauce and serve!
Make sure you have a bunch of napkins, wet-naps or a good old-fashioned wash cloth! It’ll be worth every bite!
It doesn’t matter what time of year it is, you can always use your backyard spa. But you might be asking yourself, so what is the best way to keep my spa water crystal clear, sparkling and free of gunk! First, you have to decide what kind of chemicals you want to use in your hot tub and each has it’s own benefits.
What does that mean for you?
“All-natural” spa products are generally recommended for people who are concerned with sensitivities to chlorine or bromine. Chlorine & Bromine alternatives eliminate the odor that sometimes comes from chlorine or bromine hot tubs. Bromine is the most recommended sanitizer because it stays in the hot tub longer than chlorine and chlorine is a tried and true sanitizer. When either Chlorine or Bromine is used with a mineral sanitizer it gives optimal water cleanliness.
Every spa owner should:
Let’s start from the beginning, you’ve just gotten your hot tub and you’ve filled it up with water. It’s on, it’s heating and the water is moving around. That’s great! Keep it that way for atleast 24 hours or until your water temperature gets to where you want it. If your chemical dealer offers free water testing (like ours do!) take a sample of water in so you can get the right chemicals for your water. If not, you’ll want to get some basic test strips to know where to start. Test strips are a good tool, but they are not exact science. You’ll want to try the recommended dose on the back of your chemical bottles and then test again about an hour later to see if the water balance has improved. If not, try the next minimum dose and re-test until you reach the recommended balance.
If you are using an alternative to Chlorine or Bromine or an all natural product, you’ll want to check if different test strips or methods are used. Many of the “all-natural” products do not have test strips, just the recommended weekly or monthly doses of the product. But, if you use a product like SoftSoak – there are specific test strips for this type of chemical.
So, basically, that’s it. It’s best to test your spa or hot tub water weekly and adjust the chemicals. If you’re close to a Zagers Pool & Spa store, then we’ll keep a record of your water test history and make specific recommendations for balancing your water. The most important thing to remember is this is HOT water you’re dealing with. Chemical balance is extremely important to keep germs and bacteria from forming and staying in your water.
Here’s a handy list of other chemicals available to keep your hot tub water clean, fresh and enjoyable:
If you have any specific questions on spa care, just send us an email or add a comment. We’ll be happy to help in anyway we can!!
Unfortunately, it’s getting to be that time of year again. You’ve started thinking about closing your inground pool and you’re wondering: is this something you can do yourself? You bet! But, to get it done right, there are a few steps you should follow. Make sure you’ve got your winter closing supplies and then you can get started.
There’s just a few differences between aboveground and inground pool closings. If you have an aboveground pool, be sure to check out our blog post on How to close an Aboveground Pool.
There are a few misconceptions and no-nos we should clear up first.
The best way to keep water from collecting on my cover is to just put an auto-pump on it and leave it there all winter. Hmmmm, in theory, that’s a GREAT idea, but winter covers are not water proof. Water can still seep through the cover into the pool. Likewise, water can be pulled out of the pool through the cover. So, it stands to reason if you put an auto-pump on the pool all winter long, at some point it will start to pull the pool water through the pump and out of your pool. This is not good. Periodic removal of water is best or using an EZ Drain Winter Cover instead of a traditional pool cover.
It’s better to deal with a green pool in the spring than worry about clearing it up now. Nope, not really. This may come as a surprise to you, but if you close it green it will be green when you open it. And, because it will be warm when you open your pool, it’s going to take even more chemicals to clear it. The warmer water uses up chemicals more quickly than at cooler temperatures. Chances are it will be even MORE green than when you closed it. Algae can live in water as cold as 60 degrees farenheit. So, bring your water into your local pool company for a water test (we offer FREE water testing at all of our locations), get the chemicals you need and close your pool looking good. You’ll appreciate it in the spring when you open to a clean pool instead of a green pool.
I can use a shop vac to blow out the lines on my inground pool. Sure, you can, but it won’t be strong enough. To be absolutely sure you’ve gotten all the water out of your pool lines, it’s best to have a pool professional come out and blow the lines for you. They should have a commercial grade blower that packs a TON of power and to get your lines clear. Like us, many pool companies guarantee this service and if it’s not done right, you could be spending $1000’s of dollars to repair your pool & lines.
If you’ve got more questions on in-ground pool closings, you can post a comment below or just give us a call.
If you want, you can watch a video on pool closing tips and information.
Step 1 – Repair All Leaks. Covering a pool that has a leak could cause unrepairable damage to the liner. Yikes! That’ll be expensive.
Step 2 – Balance Chemicals. Not balancing your pool water prior to closing will allow the water to become very corrosive at lower water temperatures. This can cause damage to the pool surface and equipment. Take your water into your local pool dealer for a water test. Find a Zagers near you!
Step 3 – Brush, vacuum and clean – Be sure to thoroughly clean all pool surfaces and the waterline. Cleaning the waterline will help prevent permanent discoloring.
Step 4 – Remove equipment – Remove ladders, auto vacs, skimmer weir or door, flow control flap, and skimmer basket. Store these items where they will not be exposed to the harsh conditions of winter weather.
Step 5 – Add Winter Shock – Winter Shock oxidizes wastes, keeps pool surfaces clean, helps prevent algae growth and other problems that can occur over the winter months. Winter Shock is specially designed to work within lower water temperatures and conditions found in closed swimming pools. Run the pump and filter for several hours to circulate the water.
Step 6 – Add Winter Algaecide – Algaecide should be added directly to pool water around the edge of the pool. Run the pump and filter for several hours to circulate the water.
Step 7 – Lower Water Level – If you are using an Aqua Seal the water level only needs to be lowered to the lower of the two waterline marks on your skimmer faceplate. If you’re having your lines blown by a pool professional, typically you only need to lower the water to 1″ below the skimmer opening. If you’re doing it yourself, it’s always safer to lower the water several inches below the skimmer and return openings (or jets).
Step 8 – Put on Skimmer Cover – If you are using an Aqua Seal, snap on the lid or seal to the faceplate of your skimmer. Go around the edges to make sure it is on tight. You can also lube around the edges to get a tighter seal.
Step 9 – Take out all your return (or jet) eyeballs – Remove the return (or jet) face plate, eyeball and inner connector. If you are having any trouble removing the inner connectors, use the tool included with your return (or jet) plugs to loosen.
Step 10 – Blow the returns – Again, we HIGHLY recommend having this done by a pool professional. However, if you want to try it on your own, here’s what to do. Hook up the blower to the bottom of the skimmer (below the skimmer basket) and turn the handle on your filter to recirculate. If you don’t have recirculate on your filter, just leave it in the filter position. Turn on the blower. Water and air should start coming out of the jets. The jet that has the most water and air should be capped or plugged first. It’s typically the one closest to the pump and filter. After you are certain only air is coming out of the return (or jet), twist in the plug. Then continue around the pool until all of the returns (or jets) have been plugged. Your last one should be the one furthest from the pump and filter.
Step 11 – Blow the Main Drain – The blower should still be hooked up to the pool. Change the filter handle position to close. If you don’t have this position, just leave it in filter or recirculate. Make sure the main drain valve is open. Air will come out of the drains on the bottom of the pool. Let this continue for close to 5 minutes and then close the valve on the main drain. Turn off and disconnect the blower.
Step 12 – Add Antifreeze – After the blower has been disconnected from the skimmer, pour 2 gallons of pool anti-freeze down the hole. It’s important you use pool anti-freeze and not standard anti-freeze. Pool anti-freeze is rated to much lower temperatures than standard anti-freeze. Move the filter handle to the filter position and uncap the last jet capped. Hook the blower back up to the skimmer and turn it on. Run until you see the anti-freeze coming out of the return (or jet). Cap the return (or jet) and shut off the blower. Pour another 3/4 gallon of pool anti-freeze into the skimmer.
Step 13 – Install the Gizzmo – Thread the gizzmo into the hole at the bottom of the skimmer. The gizzmo will take pressure from ice instead of your skimmer and prevent breakage. Once the gizzmo is in place, pour the remaining 1/4 gallon of pool antifreeze into the skimmer.
Step 14 – Winterize the pump and filter – Take all plugs out of the pump, typically there are 2-3 plugs in each pump. For a SAND FILTER – take the plug out of the bottom of the tank so water can drain out. For a D.E. FILTER – remove the grids, clean thoroughly and inspect for tears or stretching. If you need to, now is a good time to replace any grids that have been torn or stretched. Clean the inside of the filter tank, reinstall the grids or store separated until spring away from winter weather.
Step 15 – Winterize the Heater – Start by turning off the pilot light and closing the main valve to the heater. Remove the plug and drain out the water. To be extra safe, it’s always a good idea to use compressed air to blow the water out. Be sure to disconnect the pressure switch and check the original owners manual for any other details relating to winterizing.
Step 16 – Protect your Pool Chemicals – Do you have chemicals left over from the swimming season? It’s always a good idea to store them in a cool, dry place where they won’t freeze. Also, be careful to store them away from metals, lawn mowers, cars, paints, thinners, gasoline, kerosene, snowblowers, oil and other volatile materials.
Step 17 – Clean & Store your Solar Cover – Protect your solar cover by cleaning it before putting it away for the winter. You can use Bioguard Stow-Away to clean it and then put on a protective layer for storing. This will help keep mice and other rodents from damaging and nesting inside your solar cover. DO NOT STORE IN WATER.
Okay, so now that all of that is d-o-n-e, it’s time to put on the winter cover.
First, position the cover so the colored side is up and the black side is down. The colored side has UV protection on it. Position it evenly on the water with about 1 ft of cover off of the pool.
Next, add weight. Position your water tubes prior to filling. Water tubes should be placed end to end all the way around the pool on the edge of the cement and cover to hold it in place. Fill only 1/2 way to allow for expansion from freezing. Typically, winter cover warranties do not apply to wind damage. It’s your responsibility to make sure it’s secure from blowing up and off the pool. Water tube chart for pools
Safety Covers, Twist the grommets on your pool deck up by 1/2″ and position the cover in the right direction and attach springs to the grommets. Using a safety cover tool, you can pull the springs over the grommets. Make sure you do this all the way around the pool. If your springs are less than 1/2 compressed, you should tighten up the straps. Otherwise, this should be good from your initial install of the safety cover. Hint: If you lowered your water to below the jets, you’ll need to add water to the pool to the just below the skimmer. Pools with safety covers do not have to be drained as far down as pools without safety covers.
Lastly, install the leaf net. Leaf Nets will make spring clean up easy. It’ll catch all the leaves, sticks and other debris before getting settled in the winter cover and frozen in the ice. Be sure to remove the leaf net PRIOR TO THE FIRST SNOW FALL. Then you can put it back on in the spring, prior to opening.
So, THAT’S IT! You’ve closed your pool and your ready for the winter months. BUT, before you go, here’s just a few things I’d like you to know:
If I’ve missed anything or if you have a question, just let me know. I’ll be happy to answer any questions!
THANK YOU!!
So, you’re ready to close your pool up for the winter. While it may not bring a smile to your face, closing your pool the right way will make a huge difference on how it looks when you open it in the spring. You’ve got your winter closing supplies ready and now what?
First, let’s clear up some of the common mistakes made at some pool closings.
It’s okay if I use milk jugs full of water to hold my cover down, I don’t need anything else. Wrong! Of course a milk jug of water will hold the cover down, but think of the wear caused from those heavy water “weights.” The stress of the milk jugs on the cover will stretch out the cover and cause require replacement much sooner than you planned. Not only that, nothing is holding the cover secure against the top rails of the pool and it’s easy for strong winds to get up and under the cover and move it about. Now those milk jugs will be flying up and down, the cover will feel the stress of being pulled down even more and it will be pounding on the top rails which could result in paint chipping away. Let’s not even think about what could happen if the milk jugs come loose and slam against the pool wall. It’s best to use a combination of water tubes, pillows, and cable. In high wind areas, cover clips are recommended.
The best way to keep water from collecting on my cover is to just put an auto-pump on it and leave it there all winter. Hmmmm, in theory, that’s a GREAT idea, but winter covers are not water proof. Water can still seep through the cover into the pool. Likewise, water can be pulled out of the pool through the cover. So, it stands to reason if you put an auto-pump on the pool all winter long, at some point it will start to pull the pool water through the pump and out of your pool. This is not good. Periodic removal of water is best or using an EZ Drain Winter Cover instead of a traditional pool cover.
It’s better to deal with a green pool in the spring than worry about clearing it up now. Nope, not really. This may come as a surprise to you, but if you close it green it will be green when you open it. And, because it will be warm when you open your pool, it’s going to take even more chemicals to clear it. The warmer water uses up chemicals more quickly than at cooler temperatures. Chances are it will be even MORE green than when you closed it. Algae can live in water as cold as 60 degrees farenheit. So, bring your water into your local pool company for a water test (we offer FREE water testing at all of our locations), get the chemicals you need and close your pool looking good. You’ll appreciate it in the spring when you open to a clean pool instead of a green pool.
Alright, enough of that, let’s get you going. Let’s start by WINTERIZING YOUR POOL & EQUIPMENT.
If you want, you can watch a video on pool closing tips and information.
Step 1 – Repair All Leaks. Covering a pool that has a leak could cause unrepairable damage to the liner. Yikes! That’ll be expensive.
Step 2 – Balance Chemicals. Not balancing your pool water prior to closing will allow the water to become very corrosive at lower water temperatures. This can cause damage to the pool surface and equipment. Take your water into your local pool dealer for a water test. Find a Zagers near you!
Step 3 – Brush, vacuum and clean – Be sure to thoroughly clean all pool surfaces and the waterline. Cleaning the waterline will help prevent permanent discoloring.
Step 4 – Remove equipment – Remove ladders, stairs, auto vacs, skimmer weir or door, flow control flap, and skimmer basket. Store these items where they will not be exposed to the harsh conditions of winter weather.
Step 5 – Add Winter Shock – Winter Shock oxidizes wastes, keeps pool surfaces clean, helps prevent algae growth and other problems that can occur over the winter months. Winter Shock is specially designed to work within lower water temperatures and conditions found in closed swimming pools. Run the pump and filter for several hours to circulate the water.
Step 6 – Add Winter Algaecide – Algaecide should be added directly to pool water around the edge of the pool. Run the pump and filter for several hours to circulate the water.
Step 7 – Lower Water Level – If you are using an Aqua Seal, Aquador or Winter Plug, the water level only needs to be lowered to the lower of the two waterline marks on your skimmer faceplate. If not, the water level should be lowered several inches below the skimmer and return openings (or jets).
Step 8 – Put on Skimmer Cover – Snap on the lid or seal to the faceplate of your skimmer. Go around the edges to make sure it is on tight. You can also lube around the edges to get a tighter seal.
Step 9 – Place Winter Discs or Return (Jet) Plug – If you have a Doughboy pool, you should have Winter Discs to put into each return (or jet) outlet. With a Doughboy, you’ll need to take off the return (or jet) plate that holds in the eyeball. Take out the eyeball and replace with the winter disc. Then, thread the faceplate back on. For all other pools, you’ll need threaded winter plugs. Remove the return (or jet) face plate, eyeball and inner connector. Lube the o-ring on the threaded plug and then twist it into place. If you have a light in your return (or jet), remove the bulb and replace it with a #9 winter plug.
Step 10 – Tie off floatation pillows – If you’ve got a round pool, you should have one air pillow in the center of the pool. If you have an oval pool, one pillow at each end will be enough. It’s very important that you do not inflate the pillows all the way. Instead, inflate them about 3/4 , or until a foot or hand can be placed in the center of the pillow and touch the ground. This will be sure to allow pressure on the pillow and not on the winter cover or walls of your pool.
Step 11 – Disconnect & Drain the filter – You’ll have to take things a little differently depending on the type of filter you have. For SAND FILTERS – pour or pump out the sand, clean the tank and store both the pump and filter inside. CARTRIDGE OR D.E. FILTERS – Drain the filter, remove the grids and clean thoroughly with a cleaner and de-greaser. Inspect grids for any broken pieces and store separated out until spring. Store the pump and filter inside.
Step 12 – Disconnect & Drain Chlorinator – If you have an automatic chlorinator be sure to disconnect the hoses and discard any undissolved chlorine tabs. If you have a mineral pack, that should also be thrown away and replaced in the spring. If possible, it’s best to keep any auto-chlorinators stored out of the winter weather.
Step 13 – Winterize the Heater – Start by turning off the pilot light and closing the main valve to the heater. Remove the plug and drain out the water. To be extra safe, it’s always a good idea to use compressed air to blow the water out. Be sure to disconnect the pressure switch and check the original owners manual for any other details relating to winterizing.
Step 14 – Protect your Pool Chemicals – Do you have chemicals left over from the swimming season? It’s always a good idea to store them in a cool, dry place where they won’t freeze. Also, be careful to store them away from metals, lawn mowers, cars, paints, thinners, gasoline, kerosene, snowblowers, oil and other volatile materials.
Step 15 – Clean & Store your Solar Cover – Protect your solar cover by cleaning it before putting it away for the winter. You can use Bioguard Stow-Away to clean it and then put on a protective layer for storing. This will help keep mice and other rodents from damaging and nesting inside your solar cover. DO NOT STORE IN WATER.
Hold on pardner, we are almost done. So, after you’ve checked and re-checked to make sure you’ve followed all the steps listed above, you can get onto to covering the pool.
Start by tying off floatation pillows, if not already done.
Then, position the cover so the colored side is up and the black side is down. The colored side has UV protection on it. Position it evenly and pull the cable tight through the ratchet to secure.
Next, add weight. Position your water tubes prior to filling. Water tubes go right on the inside of the top rails on top of the cover. Fill only 1/2 way to allow for expansion from freezing. Typically, winter cover warranties do not apply to wind damage. It’s your responsibility to make sure it’s secure from blowing up and off the pool. Water tube chart for aboveground pools.
Now, secure with cover clips or locs. This is especially helpful in areas that experience, or have a good chance of, high winds. The inner piece attaches to the top rail PRIOR TO securing the winter cover and the outer piece clips on over the inner piece and cover. Wind can not get under the cover and flap it around.
Lastly, install the leaf net. Leaf Nets will make spring clean up easy. It’ll catch all the leaves, sticks and other debris before getting settled in the winter cover and frozen in the ice. Be sure to remove the leaf net PRIOR TO THE FIRST SNOW FALL. Then you can put it back on in the spring, prior to opening.
So, THAT’S IT! You’ve closed your pool and your ready for the winter months. BUT, before you go, here’s just a few things I’d like you to know:
If I’ve missed anything or if you have a question, just let me know. I’ll be happy to answer any questions!
THANK YOU!!
Zagers Pool & Spa 